San Sebastian: Anything But Ordinary
- STU
- May 21
- 6 min read
Updated: Aug 7
San Sebastian, this coastal gem brings a smile to our faces. Nestled in Spain's enchanting Basque Country (Euskadi), where mountains meet the Bay of Biscay, San Sebastian (or Donostia in Basque) captivates visitors with its perfect blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and world-class cuisine.
Just over the French border in Spain, San Sebastian has preserved its unique Basque identity and spirit while being influenced by both Spanish and French cultures. Walking through its streets, you'll hear the ancient Euskara language alongside Spanish, a testament to the resilience of Basque traditions through centuries of history.
Beach, Please!
The city boasts not one but two amazing beaches, each with its own distinct personality:
La Concha Beach – Often cited among Europe's most beautiful urban beaches, this crescent-shaped stretch of golden sand offers postcard-worthy views of Santa Clara Island and the surrounding mountains. The gentle waters make it perfect for families and casual swimmers.
At the western end of La Concha Bay sits a hidden gem – Mount Igueldo Amusement Park, home of Montaña Suiza (Mendiko Trena in Basque), the oldest operating roller coaster of its kind. Thrilling riders since 1928, it is one of a handful of remaining "scenic railway"-style roller coasters in the world. Perched atop the Igueldo mountains, this historic roller coaster overlooks the Atlantic's Bay of Biscay with seemingly nothing between riders and the ocean waves some 180 meters (600 feet) below – a truly unique combination of vintage thrills and breathtaking views.
La Zurriola Beach – The surfing heart of San Sebastian, where local wave-riders and international surf enthusiasts gather year-round. Even if you're not there to catch waves, the energetic atmosphere makes it worth a visit.
Gustagarri!
Glittering with 18 Michelin stars, San Sebastian ranks among food capitals like Kyoto and Lyon for the highest concentration of gastronomic excellence per square meter. Yet what makes this city truly special is how its exceptional food culture extends far beyond these acclaimed establishments.
The pintxos culture (Basque-style tapas) transforms eating into a social adventure. Join locals in the evening for a txikiteo (pintxos bar hop) through the cobbled streets of the Old Town (Parte Vieja). Each bar specializes in its own signature bites – from simple anchovy and olive skewers to elaborate culinary creations that push the boundaries of what bar food can be.
Must-try food experiences (there are many more, trust us!):
Sample the world-famous and iconic Basque cheesecake at La Viña, credited as its birthplace with the recipe passed down through generations
Don't miss torrija (Spanish-style French toast) at Casa Urola, a well-kept secret of the Old Town—this lesser-known but equally delicious dessert features brioche-like bread, soaked in citrus-infused custard, with a crunchy brûléed sugar top
Savor wild mushrooms with foie gras at Bar Ganbara, an Anthony Bourdain certified favorite; don’t skip the razor clams (navajas al ajillo), and gooseneck barnacles (percebes)
Queue up early at Bar Nestor, where there's no menu—just four perfectly executed dishes: tortilla (Spanish omelette), tomato salad, grilled padrón peppers, and the legendary txuleton (grilled beef rib chop)
Discover anchovy heaven at Bar Txepetxa, where they serve 14 different varieties of pintxos featuring the freshest, plumpest anchovies you'll ever taste
Try kokotxas (hake cheeks) in salsa verde at traditional restaurants like Kupela
For a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience, book months ahead at Arzak, a temple of innovative Basque cuisine
Semana Grande: Ondo Pasa!
If you're looking to experience San Sebastian at its most vibrant, plan your visit during Semana Grande (Aste Nagusia in Basque). This nine-day festival kicks off the Saturday following August 15th and transforms the entire city into a non-stop celebration.
Semana Grande in San Sebastian traces its origins to the 19th century, initially revolving around summer bullfights that drew crowds during the Assumption of Mary holiday on August 15—a key Catholic feast day. While the festival has since shifted focus toward secular celebrations like concerts, fireworks, and cultural events, its timing still overlaps with this religious observance, blending civic joy with historic Catholic roots.
We were fortunate enough to experience San Sebastian during Semana Grande (or Grand Week) a few years ago, and it remains one of our favorite travel memories. The city pulses with an electric energy that's impossible to describe but unforgettable to experience.
Our adventure began with the traditional Cañonazo (cannon shot) fired from Alderdi Eder Gardens, marking the official start of nine days filled with cultural events, sporting competitions, traditional games, and music that seemed to flow from every corner of the city.
Each night at 10:45 PM, we joined locals and visitors gathering along La Concha Bay for what quickly became the highlight of our trip – the International Fireworks Competition. Teams from different countries created spectacular displays that illuminated the night sky, reflecting magnificently off the bay waters. We found ourselves looking forward to these nightly spectacles, each one seemingly more impressive than the last.
During the day, we wandered through streets alive with performances, sampled endless varieties of pintxos, and absorbed the unique blend of tradition and celebration that defines this festival. The Basque pride was palpable everywhere we went, from the euskara signage to the traditional txistu (Basque flute) performances that would suddenly appear in plazas and street corners. What began in 1876 as a modest festival to boost morale after the Carlist Wars has evolved into a spectacular celebration of Basque identity. In 2025, Semana Grande will be especially significant as it coincides with the 150th anniversary of Donostia's emergence as a European leisure destination.
Beyond San Sebastian (and joyfully tested)
When you need a break from the city's energy:
Take a peaceful paddleboard journey across La Concha Bay
Cross into France to visit Saint Jean de Luz and Biarritz
Sail the coast aboard the classic "Lucretia 1927" sailboat for breathtaking views from the water
Visit historic Gernika (Guernica) to see the legendary Gernika Tree, a symbol of Basque freedom, and learn about the tragic 1937 bombing during the Spanish Civil War that inspired Pablo Picasso's most iconic work
Challenge yourself with a pilgrimage to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, hiking on a hand-built stone bridge and 241 zigzagging steps lead to the 10th-century hermitage (made popular by Game of Thrones) perched dramatically above the sea—ring the church bell three times when you reach the top to make a wish according to local legend
Escape to the charming seaside town of Zarautz, where you can wander through its lively center, get lost in the enchanting streets of its Parte Vieja (Old Town), and relax on Euskadi's longest beach while soaking in magnificent views of the Bay of Biscay
Spend a day in vibrant Bilbao to marvel at Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum—a masterpiece of contemporary architecture—and immerse yourself in the bustling Mercado de la Ribera, Europe's largest covered market where you can sample local specialties and experience authentic Basque daily life
If jazz is your vibe, time your visit for The San Sebastián Jazz Festival - Donostiako Jazzaldia, Spain's oldest jazz festival held annually in July. Founded in 1966, it features around a hundred concerts across twelve stages throughout the city, with both free and ticketed performances.
San Sebastian shines year-round, but summer brings the perfect beach weather and major festivals. For fewer crowds but still pleasant temperatures, consider visiting in late spring or early fall.
If you want to experience Semana Grande like we did, remember that the celebration always includes August 15 (the Feast of the Assumption) and begins on the first Saturday after this date, running for nine consecutive days. The dates shift slightly each year, so check the official schedule before planning your trip. Based on our experience, it's worth booking accommodations well in advance, as this beloved festival draws visitors from across Europe and beyond.
As Anthony Bourdain once declared, "There is no better place to eat in Europe than the city of San Sebastian. Even the bad restaurants are good." But beyond the extraordinary food, you'll discover a city where tradition and innovation dance together, where natural beauty frames urban elegance, and where the spirit of the Basque people creates an atmosphere unlike anywhere else.
In San Sebastian, the ordinary simply doesn't exist. As we discovered during our unforgettable week there, this is a place to drink, dance, eat incredible food, watch spectacular fireworks, and most importantly, celebrate being alive in this special corner of Basque Country. The memories of our time in San Sebastian still bring smiles to our faces, and we're certain your visit will create equally lasting, extraordinary memories.
Ready to Basque? Let’s Chat!
Bixby Tales X Fora Travel Hotels: Travel the way you want, but better.
Luxe: Hotel Maria Cristina – a hallmark of San Sebastian, this regal Spanish hotel hosted royalty and aristocrats of yesteryear
Budget Friendly: Room Mate Gorka
Trending: Nobu Hotel – where luxury meets culinary excellence
For Tours and Activities, visit Viator. We’ve Got You! P.S. San Sebastian – Serendipity in Sweet Form
Sometimes, the best memories come wrapped in unexpected sweetness. We celebrated a milestone birthday in San Sebastian, and worked with Antojitos Reposteria to coordinate a special order—a dreamy orange cream cake for the celebrant who’s a die-hard orange creamsicle fan. Whether you’re marking a special occasion or just indulging in the moment, their cakes and pastries are worth a visit. Travelers passing through town, take note: This is one sweet stop you don’t want to miss.
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